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When curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. However, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” states the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.